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My name is Andy Kyriacou, and I am the singer in
the 80's band, Modern Romance. I have written this
piece purely because I wish to share the
impression left on me by Turkey. In fact, I now
have a very different viewpoint of Turkey,
following my impromptu visit there in July/August
2008.
Prior to my visit, I had not spoken to
anyone, English, Greek or otherwise, to see what
they thought of the place or indeed, the people. Why
would I do that? After all, I knew enough about
the Turks on the mainland, or so I thought. I
had been assured that they were, and
still are, barbarians. More than that, I had
been told that they were "behind the
times", such comments giving me the
impression that they lived in squalor and poverty.
I was led to believe that they lived in
old dilapidated buildings. This was partly
"proven" to me, by virtue of the way
that the buildings in Northern Cyprus, following
the Turkish invasion, were allowed to
deteriorate. Hotels, shops & homes, previously
owned by the Greek Cypriots, and thus already
"built and ready" for the Turks after
the invasion, were not maintained, and left
to crumble. So, with this picture firmly in my
head, it followed that I would be of the opinion
that, if the Turks could not maintain what was
already there, then the existence of
cities or towns which would resemble the "civilised
west" in their native Turkey was an
impossibility.
What a culture shock on arriving!!! The small,
unimposing airport gave no clue of what was to
follow. On the way to Kusadasi, many of the
dwellings resembled the buildings in Cyprus. So
much so that my eldest daughter was also
completely shocked at the similarities between our
ancestral home, and the home of the
"enemy". The roads, the architecture,
all looked so familiar, and even the people looked
like the typical Greek Cypriot. When you added the
sun, the pure blue sky, and the smell of cooking
wafting through the air, you could well have been
in Nicosia or Larnaca.
However, more was to follow. My daughters had both
expressed a slight worry, when I initially
informed them that we were going to Turkey. When I
told them that I had checked and there really was
not a problem with us going, despite our
nationality, they both stated that they would not
be admitting to being Greek whilst holidaying. In
fact Natalie, my youngest, took her Greece
football top complete with the name "Charisteas"
on the back, to Turkey, but said she would
only wear it to bed.
On our first day, arriving at around 7pm in
Kusadasi, we unpacked and then went out to dinner.
The restaurant we chose served a selection of
food, some European, some Turkish, and some very
very Greek, although it must be said that Greek
and Turkish food is extremely similar. The
waiter who served us asked where we were from, and
the girls replied "England". The waiter
acknowledged this and turned to bring us the
menu. I immediately felt I was betraying my roots,
and very quickly a voice blurted" Yes, we are
from England but we are not English!"
He turned back, and asked what nationality we
were, to which I replied (almost defiantly),
"We are from Cyprus". His reaction
completely threw me. Firstly, he replied in Greek,
"That's wonderful. How are you?"
Then proceeded to tell me that his father was born
on one of the Greek islands and that he, the
waiter, came to Turkey as a young boy. Whilst
taking all this in, I heard Greek i,e, from
mainland Greece, being spoken on the table behind
me. Once the waiter left to put our order in, I
turned and began to engage in conversation with
the three men behind me, who were all from Athens.
They told me that they had visited Turkey a number
of times. I asked if they had ever encountered any
problems, due to their origins, and they assured
me that there was no problem whatsoever in being a
Greek or Greek Cypriot in Turkey. I could see
that the girls were now beginning to realise
that their fears (and my uncertainties) were
unfounded, and had been based on other people's
bigoted views.
The holiday itself was a joy. How could it fail to
be? The people were very friendly, far from
barbaric, and the majority of traders could speak
English - I am sure that English was not a
particularly popular language during the Ottoman
Empire, but this is modern Turkey, which has done
much to shed the reputation it took hundreds of
years to acquire. The food was superb (I refer to
the native cuisine), and on the whole, it was a
great experience. I would certainly look to going
back to Turkey again.
The only negative? Extremely poor service,
communication, and general standards in some of
the hotels, including the one I stayed in.
Holidaymakers should not resort to eating
out, when they have already paid for their food on
a half or full board basis. I met many families
who had to do this, and indeed, my children who
are not as fussy as many, were so fed up with the
unimaginative breakfast buffet which was exactly
the same every day, that we opted to have
breakfast out, for our final 4 days.
My only advice for the people of Kusadasi, and the
region in general is to not become a slave to
tourism. There are many instances of holiday
destinations being so determined to cater for the
tourists, that their own identity and culture, are forgotten
about, in their eagerness to comply with the
ideals of the visitors.
Keep your roots, and allow the visitors to see
what you are offering - do not offer the visitors
what they want, at the risk of losing part of your
own, unique culture.
Oh, and one last thing - see you all again.
Written by Andy Kyriacou
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